Anatomy of a dish: Pawpaw Panna Cotta, Raspberry Gel, Savory Wafer

Having grown up in the sticks of Southern Indiana, it now seems that it was inevitable I would eventually grow an obsession with pawpaws. The largest true fruit native to the continental United States, it is also fabulously elusive, appearing on exotic-looking trees near creek beds and shady springs throughout Eastern North America. Making them […]

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Anatomy of a Dish: Worcestershire Gel-Poached Arctic Char, Carolina Gold Rice & Heirloom Benne Salad, Char Skin Chicharrones, Flavors of Summer

When Carl Galvan and David Carrier invited me to contribute to the dinner at Kith and Kin in honor of the wild Nunavit arctic char, I saw it first as an opportunity to work side by side with some of Chicago’s top chefs, and it was an added bonus that we would be preparing dishes […]

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Anatomy of a dish: Louisiana Crawfish, Garden Thyme Gnocchi, Lemon, Spring Onions

Monday morning, I was on the phone with one of the crawfish merchants in Louisiana I’ve used from time to time for Big Jones. This time, the occasion was a going-away party for one of our staff, Christa (regular brunchers know Christa) who grew up in Lafayette, LA and enjoys the distinction of being Acadian, […]

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Anatomy of a dish: Char Grilled House Andouille, Hominy, Farm Eggs, Onions

When I was a boy, hominy was one of those foods I thought was flat out bizarre, something that old folks ate. I associated it with my grandparents, older aunts and uncles, people that were not like me. Not to mention that it was supposedly corn, but had a funny gelatinous texture and sweet/earthy flavor […]

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